The following is a description of a trip taken on the Begonia between Ostend and Ramsgate as it appeared on the Ostend Ferries yahoo group.  Text and all pictures kindly submitted by 'fw'

Having seen the Begonia docked and looking very forlorn in Oostende harbour last summer I wondered how she would fare in TEF/TSL'S hands.

Simple answer: Very well! The TSL handymen have done her proud.

Before I start I should confess that it is over twenty years since I was last on her, and that was when she was Townsend Thoresen's European Clearway and for some reason was standing in on the Felixstowe - Europort route on a very stormy (Force 9, with gusts to Force 11) night. As someone who was brought up on the Horsa / Hengist / Vortigern (for Larne based readers these ferries were similar to our own Antrim and Ailsa Princesses) her vehicle decks seemed huge and her public spaces cramped, however the weather that night was so bad that I adjourned to my cabin and spent the night sliding from one end of the bunk to the other.

First impressions, after the likes of the Midnight Merchant or Stena Hollandica the vehicle decks don't seem that large and the public spaces still seem cramped. What does strike you is how 'extra white' the white painted surfaces are. Before you say this is because the paint is new, I don't think so, because I was on one of the P&O's reborn twins the second day out and the new white just seemed white and clean and not white and extra bright. What was blue under P&O is now TEF Green, the signage is a mix out of new international and I guess old P&O. The outside stairs from the upper vehicle deck to the saloon are still narrow and steep but without a trace of either rust or twenty five years wear. The little cabin on the starboard side (was it where UK immigration checked passports on the way out?) now houses a laundry fitted out with the latest in stainless steel washing machines and other equipment necessary to turn out the crisp bedding in each cabin. Past the kitchen (again new stainless steel equipped) and saloon into the very small hall before going into the main saloon with the reception window. Everywhere outside there is new hard wood decking custom made to a very high standard.

The internal layout hasn't changed, the style has. Gone are the brown lino floors and brown plastic covered chairs worthy of an M6 service area on a wet Wednesday. But basically the saloon is divided down the middle into an eating area with larger tables and a bar area with smaller round tables. The 'in' and 'out' doors to the small serving area of the kitchen are at the head of the saloon if you're looking towards the stern. On the left is a small bar with standing room for about four people. There were pot plants everywhere (still looking very healthy, left over from the bean-feast the week before?). Colour scheme: blue carpet with red leather cloth upholstery, very smart. Probably the only original fitting was the strip metal ceiling with the circular lamps inset.

The well refurbished main saloon area aboard the Begonia looking toward the port side aft.  Photo: 'fw'

A few punters enjoying a drink at the bar on Begonia, situated to the starboard side aft of the main saloon area.  Photo: 'fw'

We left just under ten minutes late and were on the top deck at least 60% full. I didn't think to look downstairs till I was at Jabbekke, by which time it was too late. The crossing took about four hours. Another thing that hasn't changed is the waddling motion of the ship, after half an hour you get used to it, but compared to the newer builds it seems old-fashioned. (The sea wasn't as smooth as the mill pond, but couldn't be called rough either, as they say around Folkestone way 'a few white horses about' (foam tipped waves)).

TEF's crew were their usual cheerful self, the free meal excellent and the cabin and bathroom clean. The crew really do try and make you feel 'loved', because we loaded towards the end and most of the other drivers had been served, the fish was running to an end and I only got one piece. "Don't worry, I bring you second piece when ready". My Dutch co-driver, Willy, who wanted fish too, was given a plate of curried mixed meat and noodles "to get on with" and a little disappointed we shuffled off to find a free table, collecting our free drink on the way out of the kitchen. After Willy had tried a few mouthfuls of his meal he cheered up and commented that this wasn't bad, more like real food. (He's not the greatest fan of English Cuisine). However, the smile on his face spread from ear to ear when one of the girls from the kitchen turned up at our table with a tray bearing Willy's fish and chips and my second fish fillet.

Above: A typical cabin aboard the Begonia, situated forward of the main saloon.  Below: The bathroom facilities available for passengers on board.  Both photos: fw

The passageway to the cabin areas.  Photo: fw

If the extra time involved in the crossing isn't a problem and you can swing a crossing (tell the boss the rates are good) it is well worth trying.

Changing Begonia for Larkspur I think was a good move, the vessel is better suited to what is needed. What could TEF do to improve things further? Well put a Guest Book (à la Larkspur) somewhere private so that people will use it. On the reception desk on Begonia won't work, too public. Why? Because on Larkspur the management seem to read and then act on the comments made. (Me being me, I couldn't help flicking back on the Larkspur's book and reading (when I understood the language) the comments. It was interesting, there were complaints about the quality of the food in one hand writing and a couple pages later the same hand writing saying that it was better. Before I sailed with her somebody had been beefing about 'surly' staff, which I didn't find the case. Nothing like a feedback loop to improve things).

Somehow I don't think TEF are going to start a PAX operation, but if they did the Larkspur probably wouldn't be a bad start for them.

The Begonia as she looks now arriving at Ramsgate on the 12th of February 2004.  Photo: Nigel Thornton

For comparison, local ferry guru Gary Andrews travelled aboard the European Pathfinder on the 4th of May 2002, just a few months before her withdrawal from the Larne - Cairnryan route.  The trip Gary took was outward from Larne on Superstar Express and returning from Cairnryan aboard European Pathfinder.  Below is a copy of his text that appeared on Irish Sea Ships Yahoo Group:

On Saturday 4 May I decided to sample two very different vessels operating on P&O's Larne - Cairnryan route.

I departed Larne on the Superstar Ewpress lunchtime sailing to Cairnryan. The 1997 built Austal 82m catamaran has operated on the Larne - Cairnryan route since 2000 and has earned much praise for reliability.

Under the command of Captain Al Sodhi the 12.45 sailing departed early and was soon speeding across to Scotland. The craft was very clean and in excellent condition generally. On the main passenger deck forward is the Fables self-service restaurant, with a shop at the stern and on the upper passenger deck is Poets bar and a small Club Class lounge (when the craft operated at Portsmouth this full area was Club Class). There are also some good outdoor areas aft.

Throughout seating is comfortable and consists mainly of traditional high speed high backed seats arranged around tables with some sofa bench type seating amidships on the main deck.

This year a few changes have taken place to the accommodation. The bar on the port side of the ship used at Portsmouth, but never used at Larne, has been removed and now hosts a children's area and games area. The area formerly occupied by the children's play area at the stern area of the main passenger deck is now home to the shop and the former shop in the centre of the aft area of the ship has been removed and additional seating installed. (This area (containing red seating) has been refurbished generally). The nice effect of this is that standing at Fables it is now possible to see to the stern of the ship unobstructed, creating a very spacious impression.

Food aboard the craft is limited to snacks as one would expect but is tasty and not unreasonably priced.

The craft is exceptionally smooth in normal conditions (indeed as fast cat should be, smoother than a conventional ferry in good conditions) and before I knew it the craft had arrived at Cairnryan in a little under the one hour crossing time.

All in all a first class product.

I returned on the 15.30 Cairnryan - Larne sailing of the 1975 built European Pathfinder. The European Pathfinder is expected to be withdrawn and sold after the European Highlander (II) is introduced in July.

The ship has had a varied and well-documented career, arriving on the Larne - Cairnryan route last year.

With a capacity for 105 passengers her accommodation can cope with a full load (which to be fair must be fairly rare) better than her sisters with her main lounge being the full width of the ship. Half of it has the bar area format of the European Endeavour (and the sold European Trader) whilst the other half is a fixed seat cafeteria served by a servery aft.

There is also a bar/shop available and televisions screening videos.

The food onboard is great - good solid meals as you'd expect to be provided for her passengers consisting mainly of hungry freight drivers.

The crossing departed on time in wonderful conditions with Captain Kevin Doyle in command.

Despite being 27 years old the ship is still in pretty good condition. When one compares her to the European Endeavour she looks less good but one must remember that the Endeavour is in exceptional condition for her age (being only three years younger than the Pathfinder but in a condition that would suggest she is still fairly new).

The crossing time (departure to unloading) was within the advertised time of 2 hours 15 minutes and one could have no complaints about the standards onboard. The European Pathfinder has the sort of charm one only finds with an older ferry and I'd like to think that I'll get the chance to travel on her again should she soon be sailing off for a new career.

Indeed despite the very different styles of the two vessels both were excellent in all respects with no obvious faults springing to mind. The challenge for P&O is to manage to transfer such standards to the European Highlander (II) when it enters service at the beginning of July.

Updated: 08/04/04

Back to Archive

Back to top