With the July sun just too good and fearing that the few days of good weather would be the last for the summer I tore myself away from the Larne Ferry Web keyboard for an afternoon on the 25th of July 2004 to take a voyage on Superstar Express to Cairnryan and back. I even managed to get a sun tan into the bargain, who'd have thought it!

Superstar Express was introduced on the P&O fast ferry link from Larne to Cairnryan in April 2000 after having proven herself to be a fine vessel with two excellent seasons prior to this spent on the Portsmouth - Cherbourg link.  On arrival at Larne she took over from the unreliable Jetliner on the highly marketable 1 hour crossing to Scotland, sailing 5 times daily she turned round the poor track record left by the Jetliner almost overnight.    Two years later, in April 2002, Superstar Express offered even more to her passengers when her schedule was altered to introduce two return sailings from Larne - Troon as well as 2 return trips per day between Larne and Cairnryan. 

I presented myself at the Larne terminal for Superstar Express' 1245hrs sailing from Larne to Cairnryan.  The ship arrived on time from her morning inbound sailing from Troon shortly after 12noon.  After disembarking a sizeable load of cars and foot passengers the ship reloaded another good load in super fast time and cast off spot on time at 1245 under the command of Captain Terry.

The harbour at Larne was devoid of ferries on departure but shipping movements at sea more than made up for that and I remained on deck for the entire crossing.  First catch of the day was European Highlander inbound with her 1030 sailing from Cairnryan which was passed on the port side at the Maidens light around 1300.  European Highlander was engaged on a temporary timetable whilst her sister ship, European Causeway was off service being overhauled at A&P Birkenhead.  Helping European Highlander on the freight side of things in the absence of European Causeway was the Larne - Troon freight ship European Mariner.  She had earlier left Larne at 12noon and Superstar Express drew level and passed her, again on the port side, by 1320.

Off to the south from the starboard side both Stena Caledonia and HSS Stena Voyager were making their way out from Belfast to Stranraer.  Stena Voyager running at high speed was running on a more north easterly course than Superstar Express and cut across our wake.  The speed king of the high seas rapidly overhauled the European Mariner passing even closer to the freight ship than Superstar Express did.  With the European Mariner left trailing in her wake Stena Voyager straightened her course to run parallel with the Superstar Express and was evidently running at higher speed as the HSS slowly but surely began to reel the smaller fast ferry in.  The remaining 20 minutes of the crossing was the most breathtaking voyages I have experienced since the days of Sealink in Larne when ships regularly overtook each other in full flight.  This time it was much faster as HSS and SSE sailed at full power in perfect formation for the Scottish coast in their own high octane charged artistry on the high seas.

Two views of HSS Stena Voyager passing European Mariner both of which are inbound to Scotland.  Pictured from Superstar Express also inbound to Scotland.  Photos: Larne Ferry Web (click to enlarge)

Any by-standers on the northern tip of the Mull of Galloway would have had witnessed poetry in motion as the two rival ferries made their dash for Milleur Buoy, which marks the north of Loch Ryan and a sharp turn to starboard.  Closing in on the buoy Stena Voyager had managed to close the gap between herself and the Superstar Express until both vessels were almost neck and neck, but Superstar Express had the more southerly course and the inside line on the turn to starboard into Loch Ryan.  The P&O vessel got round the turn first and left the larger fast ferry trailing as Stena Voyager slowed right down just passing Forbes shoal to comply with the speed restrictions place upon her in Loch Ryan.

In open water Stena Voyager pictured in full flight.  Photo: Larne Ferry Web (click to enlarge).  Both photos taken from 1245 Superstar Express sailing to Cairnryan.	In Loch Ryan Stena Voyager is forced to slow down to minimise the effect of her huge wake on the coastline.  Superstar Express must also take care but being smaller her wake is not so large.  Photo: LFW

After a quick 90 degree turn to starboard just off Cairnryan's north berth the Superstar Express reversed neatly into position and was all secure 1 hour after departing Larne.  While Superstar Express was manoeuvring Stena Voyager had slipped by on her way to Stranraer.  For foot passengers unloading was prompt and slick via the gangway and from there via the port shuttle bus to the terminal. 

The shores around Cairnryan presents many photographic opportunities even if you are on foot, but in the afternoon the light is against you on this side of the Loch.  About the best place is just south of Cairnryan terminal, the south ferry berth is the main conventional ferry berth used by European Highlander and European Causeway.  The berth lies in roughly a north westerly direction and with the sun in the south west in the afternoon the light catches the side of the ships nicely as the photo below of European Mariner shows.  for further photo tips around Loch Ryan read Ray Ward's first class web page on his photo-transport website here.

Left: European Mariner pictured manoeuvring at Cairnryan at 1430hrs after her 1200hrs sailing from Larne.  She is being passed by the Stena Caledonia inbound to Stranraer with her 1130 sailing from Belfast.  The European Mariner was standing in for European Causeway during the usual Cairnryan vessel's refit at Birkenhead.  Photo: Larne Ferry Web (click to enlarge)

There are 4 ferry departures from Northern Ireland to the Loch Ryan ports around midday on a normal Sunday.  Leaving first is the 1130 sailing of Stena Caledonia from Belfast - Stranraer, next to leave is the European Causeway at 12noon from Larne for Cairnryan followed by Stena Voyager at 1220 from Belfast - Stranraer and finally the Superstar Express sails at 1245 from Larne to Cairnryan.  The advantage of geography of both Larne and Cairnryan over their neighbouring ports is abundantly clear when both vessels originating in Larne are scheduled to arrive in Scotland at the same time approximately 1345.  Next to arrive is Stena Voyager due in Stranraer at 1410 and last but by no means least, Stena Caledonia reaches her destination at 1500 after holding back to allow Stena Voyager to leave on her return trip to Belfast at 1445.

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I returned to the terminal at 1645 in time for the 1730 sailing of Superstar Express back to Northern Ireland.  On arrival at the terminal the marshalling lanes were already filled with cars and a large crowd of foot passengers were lounging around in the new Cairnryan terminal.  Shortly after checking in an announcement was made that Superstar Express was running late and would not be arriving at Cairnryan until 1730 with an expected departure time of 1800.  Earlier the ship had lost time at Cairnryan, with a large load for her 1420 sailing she was slightly delayed on turn round and then was delayed further waiting for European Mariner and Stena Caledonia to pass before she could depart.  She didn't get away on her 1420 sailing until 1440, despite this delay she arrived spot on her revised arrival time of 1730.

Cairnryan's north berth on 22nd September 2003 with the Seacore drill rig undertaking preliminary test boring in conjunction with joint P&O and Stena expansion plans due for the port in the near future.	Superstar Express backing on to the North berth at 1730hrs on 25th June 2004.  Both photos: Larne Ferry Web click to enlarge

The berth used by Superstar Express in Cairnryan is on the north side of the harbour and is due for redevelopment so that Stena Line can transfer their Belfast sailings from Stranraer.  In the basin between the quay and the stone breakwater that protects the north berth two new berths are to be built; one for the P&O conventional ferries and one for the HSS.  The current ramp floats at its seaward end but the roadway can be adjusted hydraulically to accommodate vessels with differing freeboards and there are fingers that can be used to accommodate vessels that do not have their own loading ramp.  The quayside tells its own history by the various painted on berthing marks of vessels that have used the berth in the past, most fondly remembered is the double white line with NAV marked between them. 

Loading for the return crossing was slick despite the slow process of two car trailers having to reverse on board. Captain Terry was once again in charge for this crossing and just before the ship singled up he apologised to all passengers for the vessel running late, which he said was carrying large loads due to the Seacat Rapide being cancelled on the Belfast - Troon route.  Just before 1800 the Superstar Express was on her way back to Larne and passed the European Highlander at the mouth of Loch Ryan inbound with the 1630 from Larne.  At Corsewall Point the Stena Voyager was also seen inward to Loch Ryan with the 1710 from Belfast.  With the shipping action at sea being much reduced on the homeward leg I settled into a chair in the bank of seating at the after end of the main passenger deck.  This area is the noisiest on the ship due to its proximity to the engines and also houses the onboard shop on the starboard side right aft and the coffee and choc dock, which I believe is new for this year.  This is a counter servery with an upmarket feel dispensing coffee and chocolates.

Forward of this on the same deck is the entrance area for the passengers from the car decks and the gangways.  It is an impressive space being naturally lit from above through a skylight in the vessel's roof a further deck up.  Stairs from here lead up to the upper passenger deck while further forward is the ship's eating area which dispenses hot and cold snacks, the short crossing times making more extensive menu options pretty unnecessary.  Upstairs on the deck above is the ship's bar, conveniently separating those who wish to drink from those who don't and the club class lounge with complimentary newspapers and drinks - the Superstar Express is now only P&O ship in the Irish sea fleet which offers such an area and is accessed by paying a small supplement.

All too soon however Superstar Express was nearing the Irish coast and the motion caused by the north westerly wind had eased as the ship approached the lee shore.  Rapide had obviously got back on her feet again and she was observed sailing out of the mouth of Belfast Lough at 1840 while Superstar Express herself continued to make good progress to berth in Larne at 1900.  The only other ship in port was European Mariner which was finishing off loading cargo for her 1900 service to Troon.

According to reports Superstar Express has so far enjoyed an excellent summer season and has helped to boost Larne's passenger and car traffic to some of the best the port has seen since the ending of the Larne - Stranraer route in November 1995.  Now in her second season on the Troon route she has established the Larne - Troon crossing as a viable alternative to the options from Belfast to Scotland.

Updated: 12/08/04

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